How To Slash Your Car Insurance Costs Up To 54% In 10 Easy Steps - Part 2

In Part 1, we detailed the first five strategies on how to cut your car insurance costs. In Part 2, we show you the second five.

STEP 6 - Review, Change or Cancel No Fault & PIP (Personal Injury Protection)

No-Fault Coverage, and it's Twin - PIP - started out as great idea's. Your premiums were actually going to be lowered. Then, your State Politicians got involved (at the urging of Insurance Lobbyists, of course) and mucked it up.

You see, no-fault insurance coverage was originally intended to have each individual's losses, covered by their own car insurance company - no matter who was at fault.

Today, in many States, car insurance companies are making a ton of money on no-fault because the insurance companies convinced State law-makers to make "modifications."

Today, because of the these changes, car insurance companies have actually used the no-fault laws to reduce payments on a claim made by a customer, instead of reducing car insurance premiums as it was supposed to do.

So, premiums keep going up-and-up and insurance companies end up paying less for claims - Someone's getting rich on that deal....and it's not you.

And to make matters worse, some States (with really, really talented Insurance Lobbyist's) also require an additional premium be paid on top of the no-fault premium. This beauty is called Personal Injury Protection (PIP).

PIP is a "wide-blanket" of coverage and can provide Collision Coverage, Hospitalization, Social Security Disability, Workers Comp, Personal Disability Insurance & Life Insurance.

The problem with PIP and what it covers is....

You already gave most, if not all, of these coverage's anyway, don't you? So, you're paying twice!

So, you need to do a couple of things:

Google "minimum levels of required auto insurance" to see if No-Fault Insurance and/or PIP Is required in your State;

Then, check your policy. If it's not required by your State to have No-Fault/PIP Coverage and it's on your policy - cancel it. If No-Fault/PIP is required by your State....take the absolute minimum. Here's how.

If you must have No-Fault/PIP, ask for and get a deductible from your car insurance company.

STEP 7 - Cancel Medical Coverage

Medical Coverage, on most car insurance policies, is a promise to pay "reasonable" medical expenses for anyone who is riding in your car should you have an accident...as well as anyone in your car should it get hit by someone else.

Cancel it. You don't need it.

Why is that you say? Well, medical coverage as part of your car insurance policy is a duplicate of your own:

- Medical Plan; - Any Life Insurance Coverage you might have, as well as; - The Liability Sections of almost every car insurance policy written in the U.S.

Think of it this way....Do you have a Health/Medical/Hospitalization Plan thru work or an Association you belong to?

Then why are you paying premiums for Medical/Hospitalization Coverage on your Car Insurance Policy?

Here's what's going to happen when you tell the car insurance company or Agent that you "Don't want the Hospitalization/Medical Coverage." You're going to hear very slick "scare tactics" to help change your mind.

The insurance company employee will say "Well, if you're in an accident, and it's your fault, who's going to cover the medical bills for any injured passengers in your car?"

Here's your answer. Your family is already covered by your Health/Hospitalization Plan. If anybody else is in the car and they're injured - they're covered by your Bodily Injury Liability coverage that you're already paying for....and their own Health/Hospitalization Plan.

So go ahead - save some more money and get rid of this coverage.

STEP 8 - Cancel Death, Dismemberment & Loss of Sight

Do you have any of these coverage's on your existing car insurance policy? If so - cancel them.

And if you're a first time car insurance buyer or, just looking at getting several car insurance quotes, don't let anyone talk you into them!

Why?

Because, these coverage's are an absolute waste of money. Most of these optional coverage's are simply "glorified" life insurance policies with ridiculous provisions and horribly overpriced premiums. If you need life insurance, make it a separate Insurance Policy.

STEP 9 - Cancel The Extras

Do you have "Roadside Assistance" or "Rental Car Reimbursement" on your policy? If so, cancel them.

And again, if you're a first time insurance buyer or getting a few car insurance quotes, don't bother with these coverage's.

Why? Because they're severely overpriced, are rarely ever used, and limit what you can and cannot do.

For instance, some rental car reimbursement" coverage is almost $100 a year for each vehicle on your policy. So if you have two cars, you'll spend almost $2,000 on rental car coverage in the next 10 years - and likely never even use it.

And roadside assistance? The piece-of-mind it offers gets trampled by the premiums the car insurance companies want for this coverage. Roadside assistance is a good idea. But use AAA for a cheaper solution.

STEP 10 - Terminate Comprehensive & Collision Coverage On Older Cars.

If you have an older car - by that I mean one that's worth less than $2,000 wholesale (the amount a car dealer would give you if you were trading it in) cancel any Comprehensive and Collision Coverage you have or decline that option when getting a car insurance quote.

Here's why. If an 8 year-old car and a brand new car have identical damage, the cost to repair both will be identical as well, even though the 8 year-old car is worth next-to-nothing.

You see the cost of a bumper and fender are the same - whether it's for a brand new car, or one that is 8 years-old. That's why your premiums don't go down as the value of the car goes down. Your payments remain almost the same, year-after-year-after-year.

But, the bottom drops-out of what you'll be able to collect on that older car. For instance, if your car is "totaled", your insurance company will only pay you the wholesale value of your car.

So, let's say your car is worth $1,000, but the total damage is more than $4,000, the insurance company is only going to give you a check for $1,000....minus your deductible, of course.

So you might end up getting $500 back. Sounds like a lousy deal....but that's how it works.

So, the rule-of-thumb is this - cancel your comp & collision coverage when your vehicles value is less than $2,000....or you'll be throwing your money away.

Okay - you've jotted down some notes and are ready to make some changes to your car insurance policy. So pick up the phone and start slashing your premiums!

The Truth About Car Maintenance Costs

If you walked into your local car dealer and requested a 30,000-mile maintenance service, is it safe to assume that the dealer will follow manufacturer guidelines when servicing your car? Should the dealer “only” follow manufacturer guidelines? Can they bend the guidelines…?

Here’s a recent and very common scenario that occurred at a local Toyota dealership….

A service customer called the dealer to schedule the manufacturer’s recommended 30,000-mile service for his 2005 4-Cylinder Camry. However, the dealer added several services NOT included in the guidelines.

The additional services included a coolant flush (drain and refill), automatic transmission service (drain and refill), and a power steering fluid change.

According to the manufacturer, the coolant does not need to be replaced until 100,000 miles. The automatic transmission fluid can last until 120,000 miles. And there is no specific maintenance interval for the power steering fluid.

Now, before we throw the dealer under the bus, which, don’t get me wrong, is always a blast to do, is there any legitimacy in recommending these extra services? Are there any circumstances where one may want to consider performing a coolant or transmission service 70,000 to 90,000 miles sooner than recommended by the manufacturer of the car? If we assume that we’re not driving the vehicle beyond its limits, such as racing, off-road, or a high-speed police chase, the answer is no – not in this case.

There are times, however, when it is ok to venture outside manufacturer guidelines. The conditions include, but are not limited to: maintenance neglect, abuse, vehicle age, poor manufacturer design, and poor quality of fuel.

While each of the exceptions above are fun to explore, we should highlight fuel quality concerns. Poor gas quality often leads to carbon build up, which can be remedied by a professional fuel injection service. Aside from this fuel cleaning service (which no manufacturer recommends during regular maintenance), there is no service outside of the manufacturer guidelines that offers any real or lasting benefit.

So how can a dealer recommend services outside of the guidelines set by the manufacturer of the product that they sell and service?

The answer is that car dealerships (the majority anyway) are independent of the manufacturer. In other words, they’re not bound to adhere to set guidelines. In fact, many dealers create there own maintenance schedules. This creative practice is increasing as manufacturers continue to extend maintenance services, stripping dealers of there usual high and comfortable profit margins.

Interestingly, in terms of service, a manufacturer and a dealer are in opposition of one another. Manufacturer’s set vehicle maintenance schedules to keep vehicles maintained according to their standards; however, one of those standards is “low cost.” Low maintenance costs net a positive image to the manufacturer. The service center in a dealership on the other hand, wants cars to be as “high cost” as possible to maintain.

Despite all this, there is another possibility worth exploring in this dealer versus manufacturer scenario. Given that the client called the dealer it’s likely that he spoke with an untrained and under-qualified customer service representative. The representative may have misled the client, providing outdated maintenance recommendations, as the older Toyota’s did in fact require the coolant and transmission services mentioned above.

In larger dealerships, telephones are usually answered by Call Centers. This is a group of people who know little about cars, but are generally pleasant on the phone. Call Center representatives are famous for providing misinformation and miss-reading a detailed automotive service menu, such as a 30,000-mile service on a 2005 4-Cylinder Camry. In other words, one of these representatives may have listed services which are NOT actually part of the service. This happens every day! Few notice…who actually remembers anything after: the service includes and oil and filter change, check fluids, belts, hoses, replace the air filter, set tire pressures….blah, blah, blah…

The owner of the Camry was quoted $450 – which - if the dealer was actually going to perform all that it stated, and the car actually needed it – would actually be a good deal.

The real and fair price according to manufacturer guidelines for a 30,000-mile service on a 2005 4-Cylinder Toyota Camry is $272.03 @ $100 per hour. To see the break down of the FAIR charges, cut and paste the following URL into your browser:

http://www.repairtrust.com/auto_repair_estimate_toyota_camry_4cyl_auto_2005_30k_serv.html

The service includes the following:

Inspections:

Inspect ball joints and dust covers

Inspect brake hoses/lines

Inspect brakes, pads/discs/runout

Inspect and test traction control

Inspect CV joints and boots

Inspect coolant

Inspect automatic transmission fluid

Inspect differential fluid (A/T trans)

Inspect radiator/hoses

Inspect steering system

Inspect exhaust

Inspect fuel system/lines/hoses/gas cap/induction system

The only items that actually get or require replacement:

Engine oil and filter

Cabin filter

Air filter

Transmission fluid (manual transmissions only)

Other services:

Reset maintenance reminder light

Rotate tires

Tighten nuts and bolts on chassis

The frequency of manipulating the guidelines with extra services is astounding. And it’s only one tactic of hundreds. Stretching pre-determined guidelines expands across all makes, models – foreign and domestic, and occurs at dealers, local shops and franchises. It occurs because the automotive service industry has zero accountability in any tangible sense.

Thus the service customer has no true advocate, information, or resources in which to turn, that can provide sound, fair, and reasonable prices and advice. For this reason alone, rests the foundation of RepairTrust.

How To Slash Your Car Insurance Costs Up To 54% In 10 Easy Steps - Part 1

How much do you pay for Car Insurance every year?

Eight hundred dollars a year? One thousand? Two thousand?

Whatever the amount you're paying now, you can slash that amount by more than 50% by simply following a few simple strategies.

Can you cut your car insurance costs by investing only 30 seconds of your time? No, that can't be done.

But if you're willing to spend 30 minutes today, this week, or next, I'll show you how to save up to $6,000 on your Car Insurance over the next 10 years.

Okay, here we go. Grab your Car Insurance declarations page (the page in your policy that details all the coverage’s you're paying for) and follow along. Make sure you take some notes. If you don't have your policy, or can't find it, call your car insurance company and get one - they'll send it to you pronto.

STRATEGY 1 - Make sure you're getting all applicable discounts for your vehicles safety features, such as:

- Front, Side or Head Curtain Air Bags;
- Automatic Seat Belts;
- Anti-Theft Alarms or Tracking;
- ABS or Traction Control....and many more.

Think about the safety features you have....and write them down.

STRATEGY 2 - Review & Change Deductibles For Comp & Collision.

Most Car Insurance Policies have two deductibles - one for "collision" (you hit someone or someone hits you) and one for "Comprehensive" (all other damage or loss).

For both of these, have at least a $500 deductible - preferably a $1000 deductible.

Here's why - If you are currently paying a $100 - $250 deductible, you'll save up to 40% per year on your monthly premiums by moving it to $500. That means if you're currently spending $1,000 a year on insurance, you're going to get to keep $400 every year. If you jump to a $1,000 deductible, you could keep almost $600 extra a year in your pocket.

I can hear some of you saying, "Wow, a $1,000 deductible. That's a lot of money." Yes, it is.

So is paying $1,000 a year with that $100 deductible....versus $400 a year with a $1,000 deductible.

The odds are in your favor - go with the $1,000 deductible.

STRATEGY 3 - Review & Change Property Damage Liability.

Have you ever seen a $100,000 mailbox? Car Insurance Companies must have. Here's why....

Property damage is not damage done to an automobile but rather "property" like a mailbox or a utility pole. So, why in the world would you need $100,000 dollars of coverage?

In most cases, almost 100% of all property damage claims can be taken care of with only $50,000 of coverage. So take a look at your policy to find out what you're currently paying for. And if you have little or no Net Worth, drop your coverage even lower - to $25,000 or your States minimum. You can find your States minimum by doing a Google search for "car insurance state minimums."

Here's what to look for on your policy - Many will have your liability coverage's listed like so - 50/100/100 - The first two numbers refer to bodily injury liability coverage. The 1st number is the dollar figure covered per person. The 2nd is the dollar figure per accident.

The 3rd number is the "Property Damage Liability." That's what you need to change. What does yours say?

STRATEGY 4 - Review & Change Bodily Injury Liability.

Although Bodily Injury Liability Coverage is a must, almost all of us end-up overpaying for the coverage we need. This type of coverage specifically covers:

- Any and all occupants of an automobile, whether it's yours or someone else's;
- Any and all occupants of another vehicle;
- And Pedestrians

Your only goal with this type of coverage is to have just enough protection to protect what is yours....in other words, your assets. And in order to protect your assets, you need to figure out what your Net Worth is - here's a well known site for calculating your net worth - www.kiplinger.com/personalfinance/tools/networth.html?

A great way to slash your premiums is to have no more in bodily injury liability than what your net worth is. Here's a common example of the coverage most people have - If your net worth is only $20,000 and you have $100,000 in coverage, you're throwing money away.

And if you have little, or negative net worth, just get the required State minimums. You'll need this info to get the lowest car insurance rates. Again, you can get see your state minimums by Googling "car insurance state minimums."

Here's what to look for when trying to figure out how much coverage you have now. As I said earlier, most Policies today have your liability coverage's listed like so - 50/100/100 - The first two numbers (whatever they might be) refer to bodily injury liability coverage. In this example, there is $50,000 in coverage per person and $100,000 per accident.

What does your policy say? Are you paying more than your net worth? If so, change it.

STRATEGY 5 - Review & Change Uninsured/Underinsured Motorist Coverage.

The uninsured/underinsured motorist coverage is a fantastic deal for car insurance companies....and a lousy one for you. This premium alone can increase your auto insurance by a couple hundred dollars a year.

Most folks think that uninsured/underinsured coverage is there to get your car repaired if it is hit by someone without insurance....or someone with lousy insurance.

Wrong.

Any damage done to your car is already covered - by the premium you're already paying for collision.

First things first....check your policy if your paying for uninsured/underinsured coverage now. If you are, Google "uninsured motorist state requirements" to see if your State requires it.

If it's not required by your State, cancel it.

If the State you live in does require uninsured/underinsured coverage, make sure you have the absolute minimum required. These minimums are not advertised, change every couple of years and are very difficult to find. So, here's how you handle this.

Do a Google search for your State Department of Insurance, go to the "Contact Us" page, find a phone number, then call and ask what the minimums are.

Don't try looking for it. Finding the minimums listed is almost impossible on most State Web Sites - they've buried it so deep you'll never find it. Just call your State Department of Insurance.

I know it's a bit of a hassle to get the info yourself. Yet relying on the Insurance Companies to give you the correct information isn't very wise.

Next – Part 2 of “How To Slash Your Car Insurance Costs Up To 54% In 10 Easy Steps”

Car Buying Tips: Five Things You Need To Know To Avoid Hidden Fees And Additional Costs

Before purchasing your next car, you're going to want to check for hidden costs, add-on fees, and other charges. You could end up spending hundreds, even thousands, of dollars over the lifetime of your loan.

Once you've found the car you want, it's time to sit down with your sales rep to negotiate the terms of your contract. After a little back and forth on price, figuring out your interest rate, and calculating your monthly payment, you're ready to sign on the dotted line, right?

Not so fast.

When you read the fine print you may find that additional fees and charges have found their way into your contract – including add-ons you didn't necessarily ask for.

Most car buyers are so focused on getting the best interest rate and negotiating the most affordable monthly payment that they're unconcerned with the fine print of the contract. By the time they get to the step where they review and sign the paperwork, if the sales rep is throwing industry terms at them that they don't fully understand, they're becoming exhausted from the entire process and just want to get it over with.

Here are a few insider tips to make sure you don't regret signing those papers.

1.) Read the Fine Print

While this seems pretty obvious and self-explanatory, it's amazing how trusting the consumer can be. Honestly, the last time you bought a car, did you read and fully understand the contract before you signed it? Probably not. Most people don't.

Some unscrupulous car dealerships are betting on that. Because most people don't read the fine print, some sales reps can slide in additional, undisclosed charges or extras with huge mark-ups to their profit.

Also, make sure there are no blank spaces on your finance contract that can be filled in later – wherever there are blank spaces, write in "$0" or "N/A."

2.) Typical Extras

Most of us are familiar with learning about the standard features of an automobile and then figuring out which additional features we are willing to pay extra for, but here are some extras to look out for when reviewing your contract:

• Rust proofing

• Extended warranty

• Fabric protector

• Car alarm (including Lojack, a device police use to find your car if you report it stolen)

• Paint sealant

• Credit life insurance

• GAP

• Window etching

The value of such extras depends on individual customer needs and situations. If the sales rep attempts to tell you that some or all of these extras are standard for every vehicle on the lot, ask to order your car from the factory, or suggest the dealership trade with another dealer that hasn't pre-packaged their vehicles.

Extra products can add thousands to the negotiated price of the vehicle. Most products fill a customer need that when priced and disclosed correctly and can add real value to the whole transaction.

The problems with extras occur in two areas. First, when the sales rep doesn't spend the time necessary to determine which products fit the specific needs of the customer. Rather than suggest specific extras individually priced, the sales rep lumps all the products together and pushes you to buy them as a package.

Second, unscrupulous sales reps can add thousands of dollars to the amount financed for these products, but not disclose the price increase until the last possible moment, when the financing contracts are being signed.

3.) Documentation and Administration Fees

Federal, state, and local governments are pushing more and more of their regulatory cost onto the local dealerships. In an effort to offset some of these fees and services dealers are required to perform, most add, a documentation or administration fee to the total cost of the transaction. Depending on state and local regulations, fee adding $100 to $150 seem reasonable and cover most of these additional items. These services include:

• Duplicate Title Fees

• Notice of Security Interest (to perfect lien)

• 30-day Permits

• Federal terrorist matching data bases

• Federal information privacy requirements

• State vehicle id verification

• Highway Patrol Inspections for out-of-state titles

• Registering leases at customer's county of residence

• Carfax

• FedEx charges/Shipping charges

• Additional title addendums

• Truth in lending record retention

Some dealers have taken up the practice of marking up documentation and administrative fees and are now charging as high as $300 to $500 per sale. A few are even higher. The charge for most of these fees seems to be more based on getting a customer to pay extra after the customer has finished negotiating, not the average amount it cost to get most deals through various state and federal regulations, as implied.

4.) Ask for a Menu System Disclosure

The best disclosure method I've seen in years involved using a menu system. On a separate sheet of paper the rep produces a document that includes:

1.) The negotiated price of the vehicle or trade difference

2.) The additional price of suggested extras (these can be shown as various option packages that may save money when bought in combination and as individually priced options)

3.) New totals initialed by both parties

This procedure makes sure that any suggested extras are properly explained and disclosed. It also allows the customer time to consider each item separate from the longer and potentially confusing finance documents. The final numbers from the menu should get carried over directly to the finance document.

5.) Other Costs

When buying a car, remember that there are other "hidden" costs (or, costs that aren't usually considered), that go beyond the dealership.

During the lifetime of your vehicle, you're going to have to pay for registration and tags, taxes, insurance, oil changes and fuel every year, and periodically pay for maintenance and repairs. Older models (cars more than 3-5 years old) may cost less up front, but you will likely need to factor more maintenance and repair costs into your budget than if you bought a newer model. While new models need fewer repairs and maintenance work, you will have to pay more up front.

Your wallet does not have to go through the ringer the next time you decide to visit a new or used car dealer. You can protect yourself from blindly signing into an unfavorable car deal by doing your homework, going to a car dealership with a good reputation, being prepared, asking questions, and double checking behind your sales rep.